Indochina (Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia) on a Motorbike: 10 things to know

One of the selling points of travelling Indochina region of Southeast Asia is that majority of the destinations are reachable by land; No need to pre-book airline tickets except that you'll have to endure Loooonnnggggg hours seating in the buses.

As I entered cambodia during my #LimbonisASIA trip, I've read that it is possible to cross the 3 countries, Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia using a vietnamese motorbike. Back in my country Philippines, I rode a motorbike from Manila to Bicol (and how I wished I had the time to do it all the way to the south), and enjoyed it a lot. There is the freedom to stop at any point, as frequent as preferred, and as slow or fast as necessary. Thus, I decided to buy my own, a Honda Dream, and drove into these 3 countries.

Here are my advice:

1. Be smart in buying the bike.  If possible, start your trip from North Vietnam, Hanoi, where bikes are cheaper compared to the South (Saigon). You may either check craiglist, or expatblog, or check postings from bulletins of guesthouses or street posts, or better yet, get to a garage. Garage prices in Hanoi are $200 up. Purchases normally include a Helmet, Rack, and in cases raincoat, lock and spare keys. 

You may opt for the manual or semi automatic or fully automatic; Manual bikes tend to be heavier, and you have to factor in that you can control the weight of your bike. Likewise, automatic bikes tend to consume more fuel but are great for uphill/ascend. As for the brand, I suppose Honda are the best are parts are available everywhere.

2. Ensure you get proper documents. A deed of Sale (Document shall say Ban Xe) and a blue card.

In crossing countries, the decorum is to get through the customs office of the borders, and get a Exit paper and Temporary Import Document (showing that you legally took it in and out of the countries; In Vietnam it shall be a green paper costing $10); However, Vietnam immigration normally just need to see the plate to let you in.

For Cambodia and Laos, procedure are a little different.

In Laos, I’ve tried asking for the temporary import document (Nameo border) but was asked to just go. Later, I was stopped by Laos police, asking for document, but I told them I wasn’t given anything though I asked. After a call to, I suppose the police head, I was left free.

In Cambodia, all of what I read, and all the other travellers I met didn’t even bother ask, and did not have any problem, so did as advised. I think the idea is that the bike is assumed to be going back to Vietnam anyway in a quick time since user is only on travel.

Ban Xe or deed of Sale for buying a Motorbike in Vietnam

Vietnamese Blue Card for Motorbike

Customs Documentation for Exporting Motorbike in Vietnam

backside of Customs Documentation for Exporting Motorbike in Vietnam

3. Always wear your helmet, not just that it may be grounds for policeman calling your attention, but also for your safety .

4 . In Vietnam, speed limit is only up to 40kph in any highway, but this is impossibly slow when you’re moving from city to city. Speed up if necessary but not compromise your safety;  Take note as well that sometimes, no matter if its an asian highway, buffalos, cows, and even ducks may sudddenly cross the road; Reserve some anticipation. Slow down if you see a police; If they stop you, show them passport. No need to escape them away just like the locals.

5. Lights on during daylight is illegal in Cambodia. Any road violation though in this country shall not cost more than $2 though. Never fall into paying more than that in case they accuse you of anything.

6. Tollways are free for motorbikes; Take the rightmost lane and pass safely. Highway’s rightmost lanes are intended for bikes, and tend to be favourable as they are smooth. You may have to go in and out though as some bicycles and even motorbikes (lazy to cross to the other, proper lane on the other side of the ride) coming from the other way may also drive on this lane.



At the inner lanes, 

especially on the Asian highway used by delivery trucks and buses, potholes come in surprise. Buses, Trucks and any other private vehicle would take your lane, and wont care about you.  Nothing beats being attentive and never compromise on your right of way.

Avoid asian highway. The ho chi minh road is much smoother and no traffic, except that it may be a little far off from the cities. Then again, in north vietnam, you'd rather drive here and then into the cities, rather than endure the traffic, dust, and rough surface of the asian highway. It may be extra kilometres, but sure saves you time.

en route to Nameo border

7. Fuel is available almost everywhere, even in Laos, although keeping a liter extra is not inconvenient. Opt for 95 rating gas if available; The price difference to the regular one is almost nil, and will save you a lot of time in fuelling up, providing more speed and power.  Exhaust systems may be very hot by the time you fuel up, so make sure to keep your luggage away in case you have to take them off the bike to reach the tank mouth to avoid molting your luggage

my bag's strap molten by the exhaust system of the bike

8. Tie your bags very well and secure passports. You would not want to arrive without one of your luggage especially that with your passport and atms. This has happened to us, luckily, the local guy who picked it up was honest enough to pick up our call to hand over the bag.

at the house of the Vietnamese guy who picked up my travel mate's bag

Don't leave the blue card in the bike as in the unlikely event that it get stolen, this will mean they can legally own it. Always put the chain lock on the tires especially if leaving in unattended areas. One guy I met in North Vietnam parked his bike in front of the hostel in the Old Quarter in Hanoi, and lost his bike, just the day before he's supposed to sell it, 

9. No need to bring lonely planet. Wikitavel or Travelfish shall be enough. You have a bike, which gives you the added advantage of being able to explore. Also, When locals say its far, its a walk away. There will also be some cases where locals will hitchhike . 

10. In Lao, distance between cities may be far apart, so expect to drive morning til late. There may also be no restaurant along the way, so prep up for a little snack. Also, the fuel stations aren't as convenient as in Vietnam; it won't hurt to keep a liter or even just half (in a small bottle) just in case. Much of Laos is still jungle.

this is where i put my bottle, although later, i changed this to rather smaller 1 liter bottle

Average Charge/Prices of Sample Expenses:

Change Oil: $2-4

Tire Plaster/Repair: $0.5-$1

Parking: $0.25

Tyre - $5-7

Side Mirror - $2.50

Rear wheel hub – $11

Light Bulb - $1.00

Crossing Ferry to Catba Island: 2 x $1.00

Ferry Crossing in Mekong River to Phnom Penh: $0.25

One of the selling points of travelling Indochina region of Southeast Asia is that majority of the destinations are reachable by land; No need to pre-book airline tickets except that you'll have to endure Loooonnnggggg hours seating in the buses.

As I entered cambodia during my #LimbonisASIA trip, I've read that it is possible to cross the 3 countries, Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia using a vietnamese motorbike. Back in my country Philippines, I rode a motorbike from Manila to Bicol (and how I wished I had the time to do it all the way to the south), and enjoyed it a lot. There is the freedom to stop at any point, as frequent as preferred, and as slow or fast as necessary. Thus, I decided to buy my own, a Honda Dream, and drove into these 3 countries.

Here are my advice:

1. Be smart in buying the bike.  If possible, start your trip from North Vietnam, Hanoi, where bikes are cheaper compared to the South (Saigon). You may either check craiglist, or expatblog, or check postings from bulletins of guesthouses or street posts, or better yet, get to a garage. Garage prices in Hanoi are $200 up. Purchases normally include a Helmet, Rack, and in cases raincoat, lock and spare keys. 

You may opt for the manual or semi automatic or fully automatic; Manual bikes tend to be heavier, and you have to factor in that you can control the weight of your bike. Likewise, automatic bikes tend to consume more fuel but are great for uphill/ascend. As for the brand, I suppose Honda are the best are parts are available everywhere.

2. Ensure you get proper documents. A deed of Sale (Document shall say Ban Xe) and a blue card.

In crossing countries, the decorum is to get through the customs office of the borders, and get a Exit paper and Temporary Import Document (showing that you legally took it in and out of the countries; In Vietnam it shall be a green paper costing $10); However, Vietnam immigration normally just need to see the plate to let you in.

For Cambodia and Laos, procedure are a little different.

In Laos, I’ve tried asking for the temporary import document (Nameo border) but was asked to just go. Later, I was stopped by Laos police, asking for document, but I told them I wasn’t given anything though I asked. After a call to, I suppose the police head, I was left free.

In Cambodia, all of what I read, and all the other travellers I met didn’t even bother ask, and did not have any problem, so did as advised. I think the idea is that the bike is assumed to be going back to Vietnam anyway in a quick time since user is only on travel.

Ban Xe or deed of Sale for buying a Motorbike in Vietnam

Vietnamese Blue Card for Motorbike

Customs Documentation for Exporting Motorbike in Vietnam

backside of Customs Documentation for Exporting Motorbike in Vietnam

3. Always wear your helmet, not just that it may be grounds for policeman calling your attention, but also for your safety .

4 . In Vietnam, speed limit is only up to 40kph in any highway, but this is impossibly slow when you’re moving from city to city. Speed up if necessary but not compromise your safety;  Take note as well that sometimes, no matter if its an asian highway, buffalos, cows, and even ducks may sudddenly cross the road; Reserve some anticipation. Slow down if you see a police; If they stop you, show them passport. No need to escape them away just like the locals.

5. Lights on during daylight is illegal in Cambodia. Any road violation though in this country shall not cost more than $2 though. Never fall into paying more than that in case they accuse you of anything.

6. Tollways are free for motorbikes; Take the rightmost lane and pass safely. Highway’s rightmost lanes are intended for bikes, and tend to be favourable as they are smooth. You may have to go in and out though as some bicycles and even motorbikes (lazy to cross to the other, proper lane on the other side of the ride) coming from the other way may also drive on this lane.



At the inner lanes, 

especially on the Asian highway used by delivery trucks and buses, potholes come in surprise. Buses, Trucks and any other private vehicle would take your lane, and wont care about you.  Nothing beats being attentive and never compromise on your right of way.

Avoid asian highway. The ho chi minh road is much smoother and no traffic, except that it may be a little far off from the cities. Then again, in north vietnam, you'd rather drive here and then into the cities, rather than endure the traffic, dust, and rough surface of the asian highway. It may be extra kilometres, but sure saves you time.

en route to Nameo border

7. Fuel is available almost everywhere, even in Laos, although keeping a liter extra is not inconvenient. Opt for 95 rating gas if available; The price difference to the regular one is almost nil, and will save you a lot of time in fuelling up, providing more speed and power.  Exhaust systems may be very hot by the time you fuel up, so make sure to keep your luggage away in case you have to take them off the bike to reach the tank mouth to avoid molting your luggage

my bag's strap molten by the exhaust system of the bike

8. Tie your bags very well and secure passports. You would not want to arrive without one of your luggage especially that with your passport and atms. This has happened to us, luckily, the local guy who picked it up was honest enough to pick up our call to hand over the bag.

at the house of the Vietnamese guy who picked up my travel mate's bag

Don't leave the blue card in the bike as in the unlikely event that it get stolen, this will mean they can legally own it. Always put the chain lock on the tires especially if leaving in unattended areas. One guy I met in North Vietnam parked his bike in front of the hostel in the Old Quarter in Hanoi, and lost his bike, just the day before he's supposed to sell it, 

9. No need to bring lonely planet. Wikitavel or Travelfish shall be enough. You have a bike, which gives you the added advantage of being able to explore. Also, When locals say its far, its a walk away. There will also be some cases where locals will hitchhike . 

10. In Lao, distance between cities may be far apart, so expect to drive morning til late. There may also be no restaurant along the way, so prep up for a little snack. Also, the fuel stations aren't as convenient as in Vietnam; it won't hurt to keep a liter or even just half (in a small bottle) just in case. Much of Laos is still jungle.

this is where i put my bottle, although later, i changed this to rather smaller 1 liter bottle

Average Charge/Prices of Sample Expenses:

Change Oil: $2-4

Tire Plaster/Repair: $0.5-$1

Parking: $0.25

Tyre - $5-7

Side Mirror - $2.50

Rear wheel hub – $11

Light Bulb - $1.00

Crossing Ferry to Catba Island: 2 x $1.00

Ferry Crossing in Mekong River to Phnom Penh: $0.25

Read More »

Vietnamese people I'd wish every traveller would meet too

It is 3 days to go before the expiry of my Cambodian visa, and again, i'll have to move elsewhere.

I've spent more than 2 months in Vietnam out of this backpacking trip, and once in a while, I would try to convince myself with going back to Vietnam. Then again, there's really nothing more for me to go back to Vietnam, other than it's just so cool to hang around because it's cheap, and quality (in food, transpo, accomodation, etc) is not a compromise. 

I loved Vietnam, and when I meet travellers who feel otherwise, I go on defense for Vietnam, in the name of the great people I met when I was travelling the whole country.  Vietnam has nice people too... Actually. Here's some of them.

Vy Ha and Family of Tri Ton, An Giang Province

Without any english, and me, without any Vietnamese, I stayed with this family's guesthouse for a night talking mainly by action and google translate.

I asked them for where I can eat, and instead of giving me an answer, Vy's husband accompanied me with his bike to the local restaurant. I was asking for where I can rent a bicycle to go around, instead, they lend me their bicycle. The bus to Ho Chi Minh arrives in the pick up point at 10pm, and Vy's husband booked the bus for me, escorted me to the pick up point, and waited for me until the bus arrived.


Than & Vhang of tt Van Gia

Being disappointed with the beach in Nha Trang, I insisted on going to Van Gia, which is an hour to the north. At first, I was wary as again, there is nothing written online about this place; Then again, it will not be the first time anyway, as I survived An Giang province.

Upon arrival in Van Gia, my first task was of course to look for accomodation. Having walked around town, and not seeing any Nga Nghi/Guesthouse, I sat on a coffee shop. The coffee shop owner happened to be a refugee to the Philippines back in the Vietnam war. I have asked him where I can probably sleep for the night, and he asked his friend, Vhang, to drop me by.

As we arrived in the guesthouse, I was readying $1.50 for the drop; Vhang said he's doing it as a friend, not as a moto driver; He also asked where I will be eating, and that he can drop me to the local restaurant. He picked me up an hour later.

While eating, he mentioned he has a Vietnamese friend who worked in the Philippines before. After dinner, we met this friend, Thanh, and surprisingly, he spoke a dialect from the Philippines. Just when I thought I might not be able to get any english speaking local, here I am confronted with a "Bisaya (the Filipino Dialect)" speaking Vietnamese (then again, i'm not wrong as he still did not speak English).

His father and uncles were refugees too, and one of his uncles has permanently setteld in the PHilippines. He was asked to work there.

Every morning, Vhang would pick me up from my guesthouse, just before he goes to work, so all 3 of us can have coffee at Thanh's place. Thanh would normally drop me back.

In the evenings, Vhang would pick me up to have dinner with his family, to a point, on the first night that I was out of Van Gia, his son has asked him where I was, and that it's time for dinner already.

They also accompanied me to Vinh Vanh Phong bay, which was my target destination.

I met the two guys back, 3 months after, as I motorbiked vietnam from North to South during my third entry to Vietnam.

Leo of Haiphong

After buying our bikes in Hanoi, we set the following day to Cat Ba Island. It was past noontime when we left Hanoi and we were caught up by dusk in Haiphong and so decided to stay there for a night. 

Prices in Haiphong are even higher than Hanoi, and we could not find accommodation that fits our threshold. Besides, it was already late night and we'll be early morning the following day, so thought it was not worth spending for accomodation.

I logged in on couchsurfing and sent some messages to the hosts there. I left my number as well in the message.

Although it was already late when I got his message, Leo gave us a call immediately after receiving my message. 

Then, later, when I was at my border run, Leo's been a great help. I have gotten into places where I'm barely understood. I would have to call or send him a message to help me with the translation. Most of the time, he'd even be the one to call me, and would check once in a while my whereabouts and the situation; And all that, even when he's at work. 

I owed this guy a lot, and that includes setting up his itinerary for his trip to Cebu, Philippines in my country.. which I have yet to complete :-)

Thang and Huy's Family in Pleiku

Especially when I get to places where there are no tourists, I try to look for couchsurfing hosts, at least so that I have company when I arrive.

I've sent a couchsurfing request to Thang, and although he's not available to host at that time, he asked his cousin Huy to do the hosting. Thang's mom was actually confined in the hospital at that time, and so nobody's home (To think that he could have just said I Can't).

Huy picked me up, and the moment I arrived, his mom was readying lunch. Huy toured me around too with his motorbike.

That night, I had dinner with the whole family, including the dad, who setup my bed and mosquito net in the spare room; Nothing that even my dad has ever done (lol).



Judy and Family in Kontum

Although there is not much, as written, to see around Kontum, I thought about dropping ayway for 2 nights since it's on my back to the border to Laos. 

Upon my arrival in Kontum, I passed by a cozy coffee shop, and decided to stop. Kontum is one of Vietnam's coffee producer and so, most houses would have coffee shops in front.

Upon my arrival, I've asked for Hot Black Coffee which signalled that I am not a local. Judy's mom arrived with my coffee, and several fruits. She had been so eager to make me try the fruits, and to talk about things. They've asked me to come back the following day to accompany me to the rong houses, and also to have a breakfast with them. I woke up late, and instead, had dinner with them, and Mama Lyn even took beer for both of us :-).

That honest couple in Than Hoa

We were rushing to get to the border as I was nearing the expiry of my Visa; Somewhere on the way, my motorcycling mate noticed she lost her small backpack from her bike's rack. The bag had all her passport, atm, money etc.

We rushed to go back, and forth, and back again, to find it, but it's nowhere. After several turns, and close to reporting it to the Police, a man on his motorbike drove towards us, and showed us a phone.. it's Julie's phone. He said he picked up the bag, and is looking for us.

We ended up buying a can of heineken for him and his friend, and drinking a few with him.

It is 3 days to go before the expiry of my Cambodian visa, and again, i'll have to move elsewhere.

I've spent more than 2 months in Vietnam out of this backpacking trip, and once in a while, I would try to convince myself with going back to Vietnam. Then again, there's really nothing more for me to go back to Vietnam, other than it's just so cool to hang around because it's cheap, and quality (in food, transpo, accomodation, etc) is not a compromise. 

I loved Vietnam, and when I meet travellers who feel otherwise, I go on defense for Vietnam, in the name of the great people I met when I was travelling the whole country.  Vietnam has nice people too... Actually. Here's some of them.

Vy Ha and Family of Tri Ton, An Giang Province

Without any english, and me, without any Vietnamese, I stayed with this family's guesthouse for a night talking mainly by action and google translate.

I asked them for where I can eat, and instead of giving me an answer, Vy's husband accompanied me with his bike to the local restaurant. I was asking for where I can rent a bicycle to go around, instead, they lend me their bicycle. The bus to Ho Chi Minh arrives in the pick up point at 10pm, and Vy's husband booked the bus for me, escorted me to the pick up point, and waited for me until the bus arrived.


Than & Vhang of tt Van Gia

Being disappointed with the beach in Nha Trang, I insisted on going to Van Gia, which is an hour to the north. At first, I was wary as again, there is nothing written online about this place; Then again, it will not be the first time anyway, as I survived An Giang province.

Upon arrival in Van Gia, my first task was of course to look for accomodation. Having walked around town, and not seeing any Nga Nghi/Guesthouse, I sat on a coffee shop. The coffee shop owner happened to be a refugee to the Philippines back in the Vietnam war. I have asked him where I can probably sleep for the night, and he asked his friend, Vhang, to drop me by.

As we arrived in the guesthouse, I was readying $1.50 for the drop; Vhang said he's doing it as a friend, not as a moto driver; He also asked where I will be eating, and that he can drop me to the local restaurant. He picked me up an hour later.

While eating, he mentioned he has a Vietnamese friend who worked in the Philippines before. After dinner, we met this friend, Thanh, and surprisingly, he spoke a dialect from the Philippines. Just when I thought I might not be able to get any english speaking local, here I am confronted with a "Bisaya (the Filipino Dialect)" speaking Vietnamese (then again, i'm not wrong as he still did not speak English).

His father and uncles were refugees too, and one of his uncles has permanently setteld in the PHilippines. He was asked to work there.

Every morning, Vhang would pick me up from my guesthouse, just before he goes to work, so all 3 of us can have coffee at Thanh's place. Thanh would normally drop me back.

In the evenings, Vhang would pick me up to have dinner with his family, to a point, on the first night that I was out of Van Gia, his son has asked him where I was, and that it's time for dinner already.

They also accompanied me to Vinh Vanh Phong bay, which was my target destination.

I met the two guys back, 3 months after, as I motorbiked vietnam from North to South during my third entry to Vietnam.

Leo of Haiphong

After buying our bikes in Hanoi, we set the following day to Cat Ba Island. It was past noontime when we left Hanoi and we were caught up by dusk in Haiphong and so decided to stay there for a night. 

Prices in Haiphong are even higher than Hanoi, and we could not find accommodation that fits our threshold. Besides, it was already late night and we'll be early morning the following day, so thought it was not worth spending for accomodation.

I logged in on couchsurfing and sent some messages to the hosts there. I left my number as well in the message.

Although it was already late when I got his message, Leo gave us a call immediately after receiving my message. 

Then, later, when I was at my border run, Leo's been a great help. I have gotten into places where I'm barely understood. I would have to call or send him a message to help me with the translation. Most of the time, he'd even be the one to call me, and would check once in a while my whereabouts and the situation; And all that, even when he's at work. 

I owed this guy a lot, and that includes setting up his itinerary for his trip to Cebu, Philippines in my country.. which I have yet to complete :-)

Thang and Huy's Family in Pleiku

Especially when I get to places where there are no tourists, I try to look for couchsurfing hosts, at least so that I have company when I arrive.

I've sent a couchsurfing request to Thang, and although he's not available to host at that time, he asked his cousin Huy to do the hosting. Thang's mom was actually confined in the hospital at that time, and so nobody's home (To think that he could have just said I Can't).

Huy picked me up, and the moment I arrived, his mom was readying lunch. Huy toured me around too with his motorbike.

That night, I had dinner with the whole family, including the dad, who setup my bed and mosquito net in the spare room; Nothing that even my dad has ever done (lol).



Judy and Family in Kontum

Although there is not much, as written, to see around Kontum, I thought about dropping ayway for 2 nights since it's on my back to the border to Laos. 

Upon my arrival in Kontum, I passed by a cozy coffee shop, and decided to stop. Kontum is one of Vietnam's coffee producer and so, most houses would have coffee shops in front.

Upon my arrival, I've asked for Hot Black Coffee which signalled that I am not a local. Judy's mom arrived with my coffee, and several fruits. She had been so eager to make me try the fruits, and to talk about things. They've asked me to come back the following day to accompany me to the rong houses, and also to have a breakfast with them. I woke up late, and instead, had dinner with them, and Mama Lyn even took beer for both of us :-).

That honest couple in Than Hoa

We were rushing to get to the border as I was nearing the expiry of my Visa; Somewhere on the way, my motorcycling mate noticed she lost her small backpack from her bike's rack. The bag had all her passport, atm, money etc.

We rushed to go back, and forth, and back again, to find it, but it's nowhere. After several turns, and close to reporting it to the Police, a man on his motorbike drove towards us, and showed us a phone.. it's Julie's phone. He said he picked up the bag, and is looking for us.

We ended up buying a can of heineken for him and his friend, and drinking a few with him.

Read More »

Where the fire exits gone in Vietnam?

It's the second to the last day of my Visa in Vietnam and today, I am set to 80kms towards the border.

My dorm mates have been so dear to me, I was thinking about waiting until the day after (last day of visa) but I don't want to go through serious discussion with immigration again as last time, if ever I overstay a day again - no way.

I checked out at about noontime, left my baggage in the reception while I drive to Benh Thanh Market to exchange my remaining dongs into dollars.

I was back in the reception in no time. I was going to go back to the 4th floor to say goodbye to my peers back there.

One other vietnamese guest in the hostel was feeling like Pee-ing so went with me, along with the receptionist, who, I think, was smelling something.

As we take the stairs to the next floor, the electricals were sparking in flames, and the door molted and dripping flames too. 

We rushed back down to the reception to call the firemen. I went back into the stairs, and in just seconds, the whole staircase was just filled with smoke that's catching the reflection of the grilling red flame inside the room.

The alarm has just gone on. There was no choice but to go down; Took my stuff, moved my motorbike elsewhere and was steadily looking outside to the balcony of my dorm (where my peers are awaiting rescue)

The vietnamese guest was saying there is someone inside the burning room. 

My friends back in the Fan dorm in the fourth floor couldn't escape through the stairs because of the thick smoke and flames. They went through to the balcony waiting for rescue.

The neighboring community has tried helping, while awaiting the arrival of the firemen, by extending ladders from the connecting building and into the balcony.

Then came the firemen.

As per report from the vietnamese guest, We've told the cafe owner from the ground floor of the building to tell the firemen that someone is trapped inside. They've setup the ladder all the way to the fourth floor to rescue the other guests from the fan dorm, but for some reason, there was a delay in opening the balcony door on the floor where the fire was happening. I wasn't sure if at that time it was clear that the lady trapped inside was dead, for them not to do anything, but it was the last to be worked out. It thought it was necessary to check and see if a revival might work.

After breaking the balcony door, the body was also not taken out of the room. It was only after the investigation later in the afternoon that the body of the woman was taken out.

In the evening, as we went back to collect the stuff of our dorm mates, we met the Malaysian guy who has been staying in the hostel for a while. Luckily, he was out to a meeting with someone that day; Else, he would have been asleep as well just like the girl (as he'd normally be up drinking all night). 

According to this guest, the A/C in the dorm works only at night, and during the day, a Fan is supposed to cool the room. In the morning before he left, he said he reported a problem with the fan to the reception so they can work on it as without even a fan, and the balcony door closed, it would be really warm. Apparently, none has attended to his report. He came back with all his stuff burnt. If only they'd done something when it was reported.

I'm glad most of us were safe, but there are just some regrets. That 21 argentinian woman, who just checked in at night, and who burned in that room... I wished I was ahead of the 2 other girls who went up with me to that floor, that I could've seen there was someone indeed inside, wanting to escape.

I wished i knew ahead that the balcony door in that room was locked and she has no other way out. 

And I wished there were fire exits too :-). Such an unnecessary tragedy.

more photos here from the news headline


This post is part of the #limbonisASIA trip. See link for more stories, detailed expenses and itinerary

It's the second to the last day of my Visa in Vietnam and today, I am set to 80kms towards the border.

My dorm mates have been so dear to me, I was thinking about waiting until the day after (last day of visa) but I don't want to go through serious discussion with immigration again as last time, if ever I overstay a day again - no way.

I checked out at about noontime, left my baggage in the reception while I drive to Benh Thanh Market to exchange my remaining dongs into dollars.

I was back in the reception in no time. I was going to go back to the 4th floor to say goodbye to my peers back there.

One other vietnamese guest in the hostel was feeling like Pee-ing so went with me, along with the receptionist, who, I think, was smelling something.

As we take the stairs to the next floor, the electricals were sparking in flames, and the door molted and dripping flames too. 

We rushed back down to the reception to call the firemen. I went back into the stairs, and in just seconds, the whole staircase was just filled with smoke that's catching the reflection of the grilling red flame inside the room.

The alarm has just gone on. There was no choice but to go down; Took my stuff, moved my motorbike elsewhere and was steadily looking outside to the balcony of my dorm (where my peers are awaiting rescue)

The vietnamese guest was saying there is someone inside the burning room. 

My friends back in the Fan dorm in the fourth floor couldn't escape through the stairs because of the thick smoke and flames. They went through to the balcony waiting for rescue.

The neighboring community has tried helping, while awaiting the arrival of the firemen, by extending ladders from the connecting building and into the balcony.

Then came the firemen.

As per report from the vietnamese guest, We've told the cafe owner from the ground floor of the building to tell the firemen that someone is trapped inside. They've setup the ladder all the way to the fourth floor to rescue the other guests from the fan dorm, but for some reason, there was a delay in opening the balcony door on the floor where the fire was happening. I wasn't sure if at that time it was clear that the lady trapped inside was dead, for them not to do anything, but it was the last to be worked out. It thought it was necessary to check and see if a revival might work.

After breaking the balcony door, the body was also not taken out of the room. It was only after the investigation later in the afternoon that the body of the woman was taken out.

In the evening, as we went back to collect the stuff of our dorm mates, we met the Malaysian guy who has been staying in the hostel for a while. Luckily, he was out to a meeting with someone that day; Else, he would have been asleep as well just like the girl (as he'd normally be up drinking all night). 

According to this guest, the A/C in the dorm works only at night, and during the day, a Fan is supposed to cool the room. In the morning before he left, he said he reported a problem with the fan to the reception so they can work on it as without even a fan, and the balcony door closed, it would be really warm. Apparently, none has attended to his report. He came back with all his stuff burnt. If only they'd done something when it was reported.

I'm glad most of us were safe, but there are just some regrets. That 21 argentinian woman, who just checked in at night, and who burned in that room... I wished I was ahead of the 2 other girls who went up with me to that floor, that I could've seen there was someone indeed inside, wanting to escape.

I wished i knew ahead that the balcony door in that room was locked and she has no other way out. 

And I wished there were fire exits too :-). Such an unnecessary tragedy.

more photos here from the news headline


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Visa Run cum Border Tour

One more hour to go before the Police office resumes work. I went back to the guesthouse to lay my back a bit.

It's the Motorbike; I got a very cheap offer from a garage back in Hanoi for a Honda Dream bike for around 152 dollars, and I thought I can drive around Vietnam for, not just the north, but including the central region (since i've already done south vietnam in my first visit 2 months back).

With only 6 nights, 7 days left in my Visa, From Hanoi, we thought about going Northwards, as I see, there have been border crossings where traveller did not need to cross to the other country (this case China which I don't have and require a visa). I've also checked with some travel agencies and  said I can do it, though I am kind of hesitant. But I thought it was worth trying as if it works, we are that close to the Ban Gioc Waterfall in Cao Bang (said to be Vietnam's biggest).

It took us a full day to drive to Haiphong, so we thought about staying there for a night; 5 nights to go.

The next day, we drove into Catba Island. Catba was very nice to chill out as accomodation was cheap and was fronting the sea, but inasmuch as we'd like to hang out further, I had to move. (One full day) 2 nights spent in CatBa island, and then we moved further. 3 nights to go.

From Catba, we drove into Halong and spent a night in Halong Bay at a traveller friend's place. 2 nights to go. 

From Halong, i was very hesitant of whether it will work or not. I was thinking about just doing it the sure way (Vietnam-Laos border) but it was too far away; about 600kms. Mon Cai border is just 160kms away so i thought it was worth the risk. What I was thinking then was, in case it don't work in Mon Cai, I'd take the night bus to hanoi, and from hanoi, drive it to the Lao Border.

It was an endless driving on a green and diverse landscape; We couldn't even take pictures as I was trying to make it to the border cut off time; otherwise, there would have been no point and the rushing is of no use.

We made it 15 mins before 5pm at the Mon Cai border (Lonely planet says this border closes 7pm though); Unfortunately, without a visa for china, they said they can't let me out. They were offering to extend my visa right there for $45 but I have a feeling, it's not an "official" process (bribe). I did not bother. I would have been OK with it, if it'll go to the vietnam government, but if only to the pockets of a one or few, i'd rather not.

I was so frustrated, but there was no choice nor a time to whine. I've called up other travel agencies, and was told it shall be possible. There was so little time and too much risk. The other problem that wrecks my mind is that i got into a blog about a guy overstaying for 2 days and had to pay more than $100 for an issue caused by an immigration officer (stamping 28 days instead of supposed 30days). Then we thought about taking the risk at Lang Son; we assumed, at worst case, i'll pay the $45 charge/request.

Second day of full day driving at speeds we would not really be doing; The road to Lang Son won't even let us run more than 30kms per hour. Unfortunately, I was refused again in the Lang Son border. Then again, the immigration officer there advised me to go to a Police station and request an extension; This is the first time I've heard of police being able to do extensions of visas, but, it's the immigration who advised, so I thought there must be some truth to it.

It was already turning late at night, and at some point, I ran out of gasoline too. My meter shows half full, but apparently, it broke, and at a location of speeding trucks and no lights but of passing vehicles and the full moon above. My travel pal julie had to get gas for me, and I had to hang on.

A little while later, she came and drove to the Police Station. With the help of a Couchsurfing guy Leo in Haiphong who translated what I needed, the Police advised me to take a rest for the night, and come back the next day for a fix.

The next day, I came back, and was asked to go to Immigration. A motor taxi dropped me there, and there was a lady who spoke a bit of English.

After some explaining, unfortunately, the answer was, I have to drive to the Lao Border. I called up the Police officer, and was told to come back to the Police station at 2pm.

I came to the Police station ahead of time. After waiting for about 30 mins and no sign of the Police I'm supposed to meet, I sent him an SMS; Minutes later, he replied saying he's coming.

We drove onto the immigration office. After parking, the Police called up someone, and later had the other police speak to me. I was told the same thing this morning. It has gotten more frustrating, just when i'm so pressed with time, I did not know why i had to wait until 2pm, and drive to the immigration (and not even walk onto the office). Whatever transpired, I think could have done right then and there in the morning.

Again, whining won't help. I asked julie to pack up real quick and we're driving to Hanoi.

From Lang Son, it was 160kms to Hanoi, and because of the the highway, gladly it took us only less than 3 hours to drive it. 

I was initially thinking of driving it further, but i thought, the more I rush, the more frustrating it becomes. I told myself, money is nothing compared to what I have been putting myself into.

The following day, we drove early onto the Na Meo border. it's 255kms away from Hanoi. The road was not as great as that of Lang Son-Hanoi; Half of what we've driven was also highland. By 5:30pm, we were in Mau Chai Village, and I decided to call the day there. It's about 130kms to go, and with the terrain, it's not so safe to drive at night.

Leaving Mau Chai for the Na Meo border

I woke up the next day earlier than usual; It's my second day of overstay, and I am preparing myself for, maybe, a series of questioning on the border.

I started driving at around 9:30. It was an even worse road, I would every so often look at my maps if i'm in the right direction. The route goes into smaller and even more remote villages, much of which is unpaved, and muddy. I would get so worried on how bad it can get further, and if it may be a good idea to turn back, and reroute while early. Then again, just thinking of how long i've driven so far, I just went forward. 

It took me 13 hours to get to the border, arriving at around 5:30. At around 4:30, I was driving a little bit recklessly already just to make it on time. I was on self pity, for having to endure all these, in these past days, just for the sake of a stamp.

the road to the Na Meo Border between Vietnam and Laos

the road to the Na Meo Border between Vietnam and Laos

the road to the Na Meo Border between Vietnam and Laos

upon stopping at his store, this old man saw me quite dusty and took a rag and shook it off. Would not even give me the rag to do it myself

the road to the Na Meo Border between Vietnam and Laos

the road to the Na Meo Border between Vietnam and Laos

the road to the Na Meo Border between Vietnam and Laos

I parked the bike, and asked for the passport control. The room seems empty, seemingly closed. 

Then, somebody walked in. i explained, I badly need to get the exit stamp; The immigration officer asked for my passport.

I have told him ahead I am on overstay for 2 days, but it dont seem like he understands. My phone is drained, I plugged it onto my power bank.

Immigration officer looked at the stamp, and was shaking his head upon seeing the expiry date of the visa. I was pointing to my phone, while saying, I'll call my friend to explain.

I went out to get a cigarette while waiting for my phone to come up; Meanwhile, immigration officer walks out of the office and took his phone to, i suppose, talk to his superior.

Right on time, the phone came up, and I quickly dialled Leo's phone, and told him about the situation. Immigration officer meanwhile walks right back in and calls me; He was ready to stamp my passport, and I passed the phone to him. After talking to Leo, he proceeded to stamping. No other words were utterred, while i repeatedly said "thank you, cam on, thank you"

No fines, no other questions, no forms, no ban. Thank Goodness it's done.


This post is part of the #limbonisASIA trip. See link for more stories, detailed expenses and itinerary

One more hour to go before the Police office resumes work. I went back to the guesthouse to lay my back a bit.

It's the Motorbike; I got a very cheap offer from a garage back in Hanoi for a Honda Dream bike for around 152 dollars, and I thought I can drive around Vietnam for, not just the north, but including the central region (since i've already done south vietnam in my first visit 2 months back).

With only 6 nights, 7 days left in my Visa, From Hanoi, we thought about going Northwards, as I see, there have been border crossings where traveller did not need to cross to the other country (this case China which I don't have and require a visa). I've also checked with some travel agencies and  said I can do it, though I am kind of hesitant. But I thought it was worth trying as if it works, we are that close to the Ban Gioc Waterfall in Cao Bang (said to be Vietnam's biggest).

It took us a full day to drive to Haiphong, so we thought about staying there for a night; 5 nights to go.

The next day, we drove into Catba Island. Catba was very nice to chill out as accomodation was cheap and was fronting the sea, but inasmuch as we'd like to hang out further, I had to move. (One full day) 2 nights spent in CatBa island, and then we moved further. 3 nights to go.

From Catba, we drove into Halong and spent a night in Halong Bay at a traveller friend's place. 2 nights to go. 

From Halong, i was very hesitant of whether it will work or not. I was thinking about just doing it the sure way (Vietnam-Laos border) but it was too far away; about 600kms. Mon Cai border is just 160kms away so i thought it was worth the risk. What I was thinking then was, in case it don't work in Mon Cai, I'd take the night bus to hanoi, and from hanoi, drive it to the Lao Border.

It was an endless driving on a green and diverse landscape; We couldn't even take pictures as I was trying to make it to the border cut off time; otherwise, there would have been no point and the rushing is of no use.

We made it 15 mins before 5pm at the Mon Cai border (Lonely planet says this border closes 7pm though); Unfortunately, without a visa for china, they said they can't let me out. They were offering to extend my visa right there for $45 but I have a feeling, it's not an "official" process (bribe). I did not bother. I would have been OK with it, if it'll go to the vietnam government, but if only to the pockets of a one or few, i'd rather not.

I was so frustrated, but there was no choice nor a time to whine. I've called up other travel agencies, and was told it shall be possible. There was so little time and too much risk. The other problem that wrecks my mind is that i got into a blog about a guy overstaying for 2 days and had to pay more than $100 for an issue caused by an immigration officer (stamping 28 days instead of supposed 30days). Then we thought about taking the risk at Lang Son; we assumed, at worst case, i'll pay the $45 charge/request.

Second day of full day driving at speeds we would not really be doing; The road to Lang Son won't even let us run more than 30kms per hour. Unfortunately, I was refused again in the Lang Son border. Then again, the immigration officer there advised me to go to a Police station and request an extension; This is the first time I've heard of police being able to do extensions of visas, but, it's the immigration who advised, so I thought there must be some truth to it.

It was already turning late at night, and at some point, I ran out of gasoline too. My meter shows half full, but apparently, it broke, and at a location of speeding trucks and no lights but of passing vehicles and the full moon above. My travel pal julie had to get gas for me, and I had to hang on.

A little while later, she came and drove to the Police Station. With the help of a Couchsurfing guy Leo in Haiphong who translated what I needed, the Police advised me to take a rest for the night, and come back the next day for a fix.

The next day, I came back, and was asked to go to Immigration. A motor taxi dropped me there, and there was a lady who spoke a bit of English.

After some explaining, unfortunately, the answer was, I have to drive to the Lao Border. I called up the Police officer, and was told to come back to the Police station at 2pm.

I came to the Police station ahead of time. After waiting for about 30 mins and no sign of the Police I'm supposed to meet, I sent him an SMS; Minutes later, he replied saying he's coming.

We drove onto the immigration office. After parking, the Police called up someone, and later had the other police speak to me. I was told the same thing this morning. It has gotten more frustrating, just when i'm so pressed with time, I did not know why i had to wait until 2pm, and drive to the immigration (and not even walk onto the office). Whatever transpired, I think could have done right then and there in the morning.

Again, whining won't help. I asked julie to pack up real quick and we're driving to Hanoi.

From Lang Son, it was 160kms to Hanoi, and because of the the highway, gladly it took us only less than 3 hours to drive it. 

I was initially thinking of driving it further, but i thought, the more I rush, the more frustrating it becomes. I told myself, money is nothing compared to what I have been putting myself into.

The following day, we drove early onto the Na Meo border. it's 255kms away from Hanoi. The road was not as great as that of Lang Son-Hanoi; Half of what we've driven was also highland. By 5:30pm, we were in Mau Chai Village, and I decided to call the day there. It's about 130kms to go, and with the terrain, it's not so safe to drive at night.

Leaving Mau Chai for the Na Meo border

I woke up the next day earlier than usual; It's my second day of overstay, and I am preparing myself for, maybe, a series of questioning on the border.

I started driving at around 9:30. It was an even worse road, I would every so often look at my maps if i'm in the right direction. The route goes into smaller and even more remote villages, much of which is unpaved, and muddy. I would get so worried on how bad it can get further, and if it may be a good idea to turn back, and reroute while early. Then again, just thinking of how long i've driven so far, I just went forward. 

It took me 13 hours to get to the border, arriving at around 5:30. At around 4:30, I was driving a little bit recklessly already just to make it on time. I was on self pity, for having to endure all these, in these past days, just for the sake of a stamp.

the road to the Na Meo Border between Vietnam and Laos

the road to the Na Meo Border between Vietnam and Laos

the road to the Na Meo Border between Vietnam and Laos

upon stopping at his store, this old man saw me quite dusty and took a rag and shook it off. Would not even give me the rag to do it myself

the road to the Na Meo Border between Vietnam and Laos

the road to the Na Meo Border between Vietnam and Laos

the road to the Na Meo Border between Vietnam and Laos

I parked the bike, and asked for the passport control. The room seems empty, seemingly closed. 

Then, somebody walked in. i explained, I badly need to get the exit stamp; The immigration officer asked for my passport.

I have told him ahead I am on overstay for 2 days, but it dont seem like he understands. My phone is drained, I plugged it onto my power bank.

Immigration officer looked at the stamp, and was shaking his head upon seeing the expiry date of the visa. I was pointing to my phone, while saying, I'll call my friend to explain.

I went out to get a cigarette while waiting for my phone to come up; Meanwhile, immigration officer walks out of the office and took his phone to, i suppose, talk to his superior.

Right on time, the phone came up, and I quickly dialled Leo's phone, and told him about the situation. Immigration officer meanwhile walks right back in and calls me; He was ready to stamp my passport, and I passed the phone to him. After talking to Leo, he proceeded to stamping. No other words were utterred, while i repeatedly said "thank you, cam on, thank you"

No fines, no other questions, no forms, no ban. Thank Goodness it's done.


This post is part of the #limbonisASIA trip. See link for more stories, detailed expenses and itinerary

Read More »

Budget (and healthy) eats: That vegetarian restaurant in Dalat, Vietnam

I am travelling with a vegetarian, and lucky enough, there was a vegetarian restaurant just right next to our booked acccomodation.

I have been meeting a lot of travellers who had turned into vegetarian diet, and I have been considering it as well; Yet, I did not know how to deal with my meat cravings, plus, I am not too open with having only a few choices when dining.

Nonetheless, this vegetarian restaurant was more than about chewing greens and pitifully munching on steamed mushy carrots or potatoes. Apart from those dishes that clearly look like all vegetablles, they have some dishes that looks quite like beef, pork, and chicken. They confirmed that it is actually vegetables, though you say pork/beef/chicken when you order it.

At this restaurant, you can choose 4 different dishes on top of rice, plus 1 of 4-6 kinds of soup; All these for just 25,000.

On each table, you'd also find a really nice unflavored (though not as sour, butt a litttle sweet) yoghurt for just 6,000 dong. 

It seems the yoghurt is made by the restaurant beside it (and the same eexact yoghurt is sold on that restaurant for 10,000 dong; In fact, this restaurant allows diners from the vegetarian restaurant, but if you eat and order your drinks there, they'd charge you 10,000 for the yoghurt; So, just keep dining from the Vegetarian Restaurant).



This post is part of the #limbonisASIA trip. See link for more stories, detailed expenses and itinerary

I am travelling with a vegetarian, and lucky enough, there was a vegetarian restaurant just right next to our booked acccomodation.

I have been meeting a lot of travellers who had turned into vegetarian diet, and I have been considering it as well; Yet, I did not know how to deal with my meat cravings, plus, I am not too open with having only a few choices when dining.

Nonetheless, this vegetarian restaurant was more than about chewing greens and pitifully munching on steamed mushy carrots or potatoes. Apart from those dishes that clearly look like all vegetablles, they have some dishes that looks quite like beef, pork, and chicken. They confirmed that it is actually vegetables, though you say pork/beef/chicken when you order it.

At this restaurant, you can choose 4 different dishes on top of rice, plus 1 of 4-6 kinds of soup; All these for just 25,000.

On each table, you'd also find a really nice unflavored (though not as sour, butt a litttle sweet) yoghurt for just 6,000 dong. 

It seems the yoghurt is made by the restaurant beside it (and the same eexact yoghurt is sold on that restaurant for 10,000 dong; In fact, this restaurant allows diners from the vegetarian restaurant, but if you eat and order your drinks there, they'd charge you 10,000 for the yoghurt; So, just keep dining from the Vegetarian Restaurant).



This post is part of the #limbonisASIA trip. See link for more stories, detailed expenses and itinerary

Read More »

That underrated Dalat, Vietnam

I never really planned on going to Dalat, except only that one of the waterfalls I found through Google Maps was very close to it. At the same time, it does not really seem to be a top destination for Vietnam from the travel guides and reviews.

I arrived in Dalat from a night bus from Ho Chi Minh city, and it was around 6am when we arrived in town. The check in time is at 12noon, so we had the morning to explore the nearby places. 

We first walked around the lake, and my travel bud recalls reading about a flower garden around the lake. We walked further and spotted a number of tourist buses parked at some entrance very early in that morning. It was a flower garden indeed, and the place seems to be a favorite destination for local
tourists.

After the flower garden, we felt a little tired, and so walked back to the guesthouse to take a nap.

As we were so tired, we didn't wake up until it was evening. We settled on dinner at the nearby vegetarian restaurant, and a beer around the night market.

The following morning, we set to go to pongour waterfalls. It was a heck because of the bike tires to get to the waterfall, but its abundance was just too much too bother about its distance from city center and what it took to get there.

On the way back to city, thought about checking out the silk factory but was too late in the afternooon that the factory is closing, so decided to get back the following day.

Then, before heading back to town, we thought of checking out the cable cart. Unfortunately, it was too late as well to get a ride; So, instead of riding the carts, we drove to the other end, where we are looking to see the monastery.

Then again, the monastery was also closed. We drove around the hill, and at the back was a tranquil lake. We saw a restaurant with stilt setup, so we had some coffee and beer for a while.

The following day, we hit back the same dirt road to see the silk factory.

Then, there was a coffee shop that had a lake view, and asked my travel pals if we can stop in there even for just 15mins; But with the view, and it's relaxing seating, We ended up sitting for while, perhaps almost an hour.

After Me Linh Coffee Garden, we rushed back to the city to check out the Crazy House.

The following day, I left Dalat and moved to Nha Trang. 

I went to Da Lat, more out of curiousity on what is around, and it seems, this place is poorly reviewed, and probably because, as it seems, not much of the visitors to this place make the effort to see Pongour Waterfalls. More than the flower garden and the city itself, i think Da Lat is best with this waterfall, and the view along the way.

There were some waterfalls too near the town, but they are nowhere close to the beauty that's there in Pongour.

Admission Fees for Flower Garden is 20,000 Dong; Pongour Waterfalls is 10,000 plus 5,000 parking; Silk Factory is 10,000 (no parking charge).


This post is part of the #limbonisASIA trip. See link for more stories, detailed expenses and itinerary

I never really planned on going to Dalat, except only that one of the waterfalls I found through Google Maps was very close to it. At the same time, it does not really seem to be a top destination for Vietnam from the travel guides and reviews.

I arrived in Dalat from a night bus from Ho Chi Minh city, and it was around 6am when we arrived in town. The check in time is at 12noon, so we had the morning to explore the nearby places. 

We first walked around the lake, and my travel bud recalls reading about a flower garden around the lake. We walked further and spotted a number of tourist buses parked at some entrance very early in that morning. It was a flower garden indeed, and the place seems to be a favorite destination for local
tourists.

After the flower garden, we felt a little tired, and so walked back to the guesthouse to take a nap.

As we were so tired, we didn't wake up until it was evening. We settled on dinner at the nearby vegetarian restaurant, and a beer around the night market.

The following morning, we set to go to pongour waterfalls. It was a heck because of the bike tires to get to the waterfall, but its abundance was just too much too bother about its distance from city center and what it took to get there.

On the way back to city, thought about checking out the silk factory but was too late in the afternooon that the factory is closing, so decided to get back the following day.

Then, before heading back to town, we thought of checking out the cable cart. Unfortunately, it was too late as well to get a ride; So, instead of riding the carts, we drove to the other end, where we are looking to see the monastery.

Then again, the monastery was also closed. We drove around the hill, and at the back was a tranquil lake. We saw a restaurant with stilt setup, so we had some coffee and beer for a while.

The following day, we hit back the same dirt road to see the silk factory.

Then, there was a coffee shop that had a lake view, and asked my travel pals if we can stop in there even for just 15mins; But with the view, and it's relaxing seating, We ended up sitting for while, perhaps almost an hour.

After Me Linh Coffee Garden, we rushed back to the city to check out the Crazy House.

The following day, I left Dalat and moved to Nha Trang. 

I went to Da Lat, more out of curiousity on what is around, and it seems, this place is poorly reviewed, and probably because, as it seems, not much of the visitors to this place make the effort to see Pongour Waterfalls. More than the flower garden and the city itself, i think Da Lat is best with this waterfall, and the view along the way.

There were some waterfalls too near the town, but they are nowhere close to the beauty that's there in Pongour.

Admission Fees for Flower Garden is 20,000 Dong; Pongour Waterfalls is 10,000 plus 5,000 parking; Silk Factory is 10,000 (no parking charge).


This post is part of the #limbonisASIA trip. See link for more stories, detailed expenses and itinerary

Read More »