Lighting up the Schwedagon Pagoda in Yangon

It was about 4pm when we reached the Schwedagon pagoda. After less than an hour going around the structures, I was left nothing to do. We were also waiting for the dark, as the Pagoda looked nice when lit.

I saw some three people pouring oil over some small pots rolled around the pagoda. I watched them closely and a little while later, I couldn't help it anymore; Just like what I do all the time, I asked if I can try.  

Burmese people, being very friendly, rarely say no, i guess :-). I got kind of excited at imagining how the whole place would look like to see all of it lit around later (they said at 7pm).

After pouring the palm oil to all the pots that surround the Pagoda, next, we put in some yarn on to the pots. The yarns of the 4 adjacent pots should meet on one end so that lighting will easy. 

At this point, I met this old local guy who was also helping out (It seems he was also accompanied by some teenagers). He spoke good english, so had quite a conversation with him. According to him, though he may be challenged by his age, he comes here every sunday to help out in the lighting. He used to work for UN Council and now a volunteer physician to his countrymen.

There was more than just doing the task; The cold floor over my bare feet, while I move from pot to pot, the perfect timing of the activity during the transition of dawn from bright into the darkness, ..it was just (pardon my word) mystical. 

As per the burmese I spoke to there, they do this every sunday (and friday too I guess). It may not be part of your tour, nor have been mentioned as one of your must try in lonely planet, but LIMBONIS says it's a must, must try. Then you'd see the gold even more golden and precious :-).

It was about 4pm when we reached the Schwedagon pagoda. After less than an hour going around the structures, I was left nothing to do. We were also waiting for the dark, as the Pagoda looked nice when lit.

I saw some three people pouring oil over some small pots rolled around the pagoda. I watched them closely and a little while later, I couldn't help it anymore; Just like what I do all the time, I asked if I can try.  

Burmese people, being very friendly, rarely say no, i guess :-). I got kind of excited at imagining how the whole place would look like to see all of it lit around later (they said at 7pm).

After pouring the palm oil to all the pots that surround the Pagoda, next, we put in some yarn on to the pots. The yarns of the 4 adjacent pots should meet on one end so that lighting will easy. 

At this point, I met this old local guy who was also helping out (It seems he was also accompanied by some teenagers). He spoke good english, so had quite a conversation with him. According to him, though he may be challenged by his age, he comes here every sunday to help out in the lighting. He used to work for UN Council and now a volunteer physician to his countrymen.

There was more than just doing the task; The cold floor over my bare feet, while I move from pot to pot, the perfect timing of the activity during the transition of dawn from bright into the darkness, ..it was just (pardon my word) mystical. 

As per the burmese I spoke to there, they do this every sunday (and friday too I guess). It may not be part of your tour, nor have been mentioned as one of your must try in lonely planet, but LIMBONIS says it's a must, must try. Then you'd see the gold even more golden and precious :-).

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3 hours and 1 dollar into Rural Yangon

Admittedly, I have been so passive of this trip to Yangon. I left every research work to my supposed travel bud, who, unfortunately, few hours before the flight from Manila, had to attend to some emergency.

Then again, one reason i do less research lately is that I’ve begun to have fun with surprises on trips; and the experience has surpassed the (actual) destination over my fulfillment in taking the trips.

So, there I was with my usual practice.. doing my research work when time bussing on commuter buses, stations, and planes. I have heard about the Pagoda’s, but I never did I really plan on getting to them one by one; I thought I might bore myself.

I consulted Trip advisor, and just as soon as I read “trip into the remote areas” of Yangon on the post for Circular train, plus the picture of the actual rusted train, I bookmarked it.

Upon arrival in Mahabandoola guesthouse, where my just moments ago contacted new travel buddy is awaiting me, I asked him rightaway what his plans for Day 1 will be. Thankfully, it was the circular train too.

We woke up very early the next day to get to the first trip.

I must say I got a little bored at the trip although again, it was still worth taking (after all it’s just $1). There is nothing fancy, but it is a reality that is in Myanmar. It tells you the kind of living there is, and much more, how that no matter how rusted transport system support the food supply chain of the capital.

From hour 2 to the rest, the scene will be the same. The train travels into the agricultural side of Yangon, stops into stations filled with vendors of various sorts, food, clothing, plastic ware, etc. I suggest prepare something else to be done in the train, while waiting to get back into the city proper.  Else, take the first 1 and a half course of the train, and then take the bus back to the city proper.

The train has a separate cart for foreigners/tourists, but nothing beats doing it like a local. You can start on the tourist cart, and on some stations, change to the normal carts, and then go back again anytime you feel uncomfortable or so.

Admittedly, I have been so passive of this trip to Yangon. I left every research work to my supposed travel bud, who, unfortunately, few hours before the flight from Manila, had to attend to some emergency.

Then again, one reason i do less research lately is that I’ve begun to have fun with surprises on trips; and the experience has surpassed the (actual) destination over my fulfillment in taking the trips.

So, there I was with my usual practice.. doing my research work when time bussing on commuter buses, stations, and planes. I have heard about the Pagoda’s, but I never did I really plan on getting to them one by one; I thought I might bore myself.

I consulted Trip advisor, and just as soon as I read “trip into the remote areas” of Yangon on the post for Circular train, plus the picture of the actual rusted train, I bookmarked it.

Upon arrival in Mahabandoola guesthouse, where my just moments ago contacted new travel buddy is awaiting me, I asked him rightaway what his plans for Day 1 will be. Thankfully, it was the circular train too.

We woke up very early the next day to get to the first trip.

I must say I got a little bored at the trip although again, it was still worth taking (after all it’s just $1). There is nothing fancy, but it is a reality that is in Myanmar. It tells you the kind of living there is, and much more, how that no matter how rusted transport system support the food supply chain of the capital.

From hour 2 to the rest, the scene will be the same. The train travels into the agricultural side of Yangon, stops into stations filled with vendors of various sorts, food, clothing, plastic ware, etc. I suggest prepare something else to be done in the train, while waiting to get back into the city proper.  Else, take the first 1 and a half course of the train, and then take the bus back to the city proper.

The train has a separate cart for foreigners/tourists, but nothing beats doing it like a local. You can start on the tourist cart, and on some stations, change to the normal carts, and then go back again anytime you feel uncomfortable or so.

Read More »

The streets of Yangon

Gone are the days when peace and tranquility were the ideal community. After much travelling and the fun that comes with it, i have embraced the variety there is in life.

Upon exiting Yangon international airport, I'd say I was impressed at the climate and orderliness there is outside.

From there, a 30 minute cost saving walk to the highway, and the story has flipped over. Sidewalk vendors, odd transports (pick up trucks as commuter vehicles), and some packed buses... I smiled. This is in fact my type of destination.

After much asking on how to get to Sule Pagoda (where my accomodation is at), and not really a definite instruction (because I could not get it in usable english), i decided to try some of what is sold alongside.

At first, I was kind of hesitant to spend anything since we were talking in hundreds, but after some calculation, I realized it's even cheaper than what I normally pay for.

So, then I managed to get to Sule Pagoda (see story here for Myanmar commute); It's 10pm and my travel buddy for this trip hasn't had dinner.

I washed up a little and some asking around again brought us to Chinatown.

The sight of the ingredients available would tell you how gratifying the dinner would be; the aste of which I'd have to pay 5 times in specialty restaurants in my city.

In the 19th street along Mahabandoola road are chains of stalls of restaurants, grills, and steam boats that serve beer too. It goes quite lively at night when people gather to drink. This side of Mahabandoola road is more popularly referred to as chinatown, and i'd say it is for being a marketplace, since i did not really see much chinese (or at least chinese looking) people here.

Beetlenut chew vendors are also everywhere, perhaps every 200meters and throughout the day and night (but of course rarer as the night goes deeper). You'd see a man sitting on top a high chair, rubbing some liquid on leaves that are wrapped onto cracks of the bettlenut.

On daytime, the street could look differently. Some of the cornerside restaurants disappear before sun up, and come vendors of a myriad of goods; From antiques, to poster displays, cosmetics, wardrobe, hardware, etc. I was surprised that someone is making a living out of what i'd normally ditch straight into the garbage.

Once in a while, you'd come across some places flocked by pigeons next to a man who sells corn to those who'd want to feed the pigeons.

Not everyone in Myanmar too has mobile phones, and so another common sight at corners are payphone services.

There will be the occasional beggars too who'd tell you the struggle of its people. 

Stalls selling used and new books; from school textbooks, religious writings, and fiction.

And of course, there's Ko Ko Nung who does your painting and postcards right in the streets.

Gone are the days when peace and tranquility were the ideal community. After much travelling and the fun that comes with it, i have embraced the variety there is in life.

Upon exiting Yangon international airport, I'd say I was impressed at the climate and orderliness there is outside.

From there, a 30 minute cost saving walk to the highway, and the story has flipped over. Sidewalk vendors, odd transports (pick up trucks as commuter vehicles), and some packed buses... I smiled. This is in fact my type of destination.

After much asking on how to get to Sule Pagoda (where my accomodation is at), and not really a definite instruction (because I could not get it in usable english), i decided to try some of what is sold alongside.

At first, I was kind of hesitant to spend anything since we were talking in hundreds, but after some calculation, I realized it's even cheaper than what I normally pay for.

So, then I managed to get to Sule Pagoda (see story here for Myanmar commute); It's 10pm and my travel buddy for this trip hasn't had dinner.

I washed up a little and some asking around again brought us to Chinatown.

The sight of the ingredients available would tell you how gratifying the dinner would be; the aste of which I'd have to pay 5 times in specialty restaurants in my city.

In the 19th street along Mahabandoola road are chains of stalls of restaurants, grills, and steam boats that serve beer too. It goes quite lively at night when people gather to drink. This side of Mahabandoola road is more popularly referred to as chinatown, and i'd say it is for being a marketplace, since i did not really see much chinese (or at least chinese looking) people here.

Beetlenut chew vendors are also everywhere, perhaps every 200meters and throughout the day and night (but of course rarer as the night goes deeper). You'd see a man sitting on top a high chair, rubbing some liquid on leaves that are wrapped onto cracks of the bettlenut.

On daytime, the street could look differently. Some of the cornerside restaurants disappear before sun up, and come vendors of a myriad of goods; From antiques, to poster displays, cosmetics, wardrobe, hardware, etc. I was surprised that someone is making a living out of what i'd normally ditch straight into the garbage.

Once in a while, you'd come across some places flocked by pigeons next to a man who sells corn to those who'd want to feed the pigeons.

Not everyone in Myanmar too has mobile phones, and so another common sight at corners are payphone services.

There will be the occasional beggars too who'd tell you the struggle of its people. 

Stalls selling used and new books; from school textbooks, religious writings, and fiction.

And of course, there's Ko Ko Nung who does your painting and postcards right in the streets.

Read More »

Ko Ko Nung: Myanmar's Sidewalk Painter

It's my lastday in this trip in Myanmar and I thought I'd probably enjoy a walk around the city.

After checking out from Mahabandoola guesthouse at 11, there is 6 more hours to spend.

I walked towards the bogyoke market to check out the commodities there. Back in my second day, I have passed by the market but didn't really get to walk in the inner side where the better bargains are probably in.

Meantime, along Aung San road en route to the market,  a guy draws some paintings on cardboards and postcards.

Back in my visit to the market 2 days ago, I've seen some postcards which are said to be handpainted. I was amazed at how cheap they cost compared to the rare craftmanship required to make one.

And this is far different. He does it right in my face. 

Further, later, I asked him If I can sit beside him while I watch him do what I'd later buy from him.

He could speak good english, so while doing his work, I asked him a few; Trained by his father who did the same living, he, now 18, started working on the sidewalks when he was 9. 

Everyday (except mondays) he'd go to this same sidewalk to paint his landscapes using oil, a knife, a few colors and brushes.

First, he lays the background with some diluted paint and rub across with a rag. Then, he'd scatter some thicker and concentrated paint, with a brush around the paper into something looking loose and senseless. He then grabs the knife and tunes the paint into a distinct remarkable figures and set.. A tree, a roof, a boat, river, walkway, stone, etc. 

I thought paints and brushes were enough to paint; Yet, it was the knife that made it more vivid and detailed.

I wanted to show him some landscapes from my phone and ask him to copy, but I was afraid he might not be able to do it (or, at least, get it as perfect as what those he has done so far); He might have not done anything like in my pictures before, or perhaps didn't have the appropriate materials to accomplish what I want; Neither did I want to leave anyway with lost confidence from what I've already seen. . I did not want him to feel bad about saying no, or me loosing confidence too. I just let him do his thing and sign the last one with my name on it. After all, it's just 1500Ks (p70).

I don't normally buy crafts that will end up being (hand) carry ons later, but for this genuine art, i'll make it an exception. I knew i'll have to carry it separately, but I won't mind for now. I'll have this framed once I get home.

I look forward to a day when Ko Ko Nung will have his own shop, if not a galery. 

For someone, who is aging through his country's struggle for development, to see a brilliant young, in his country that's now chasing all that they've been ripped off, I can only sigh and tell him in my mind, "Oh  you (we) deserve better." 

It's my lastday in this trip in Myanmar and I thought I'd probably enjoy a walk around the city.

After checking out from Mahabandoola guesthouse at 11, there is 6 more hours to spend.

I walked towards the bogyoke market to check out the commodities there. Back in my second day, I have passed by the market but didn't really get to walk in the inner side where the better bargains are probably in.

Meantime, along Aung San road en route to the market,  a guy draws some paintings on cardboards and postcards.

Back in my visit to the market 2 days ago, I've seen some postcards which are said to be handpainted. I was amazed at how cheap they cost compared to the rare craftmanship required to make one.

And this is far different. He does it right in my face. 

Further, later, I asked him If I can sit beside him while I watch him do what I'd later buy from him.

He could speak good english, so while doing his work, I asked him a few; Trained by his father who did the same living, he, now 18, started working on the sidewalks when he was 9. 

Everyday (except mondays) he'd go to this same sidewalk to paint his landscapes using oil, a knife, a few colors and brushes.

First, he lays the background with some diluted paint and rub across with a rag. Then, he'd scatter some thicker and concentrated paint, with a brush around the paper into something looking loose and senseless. He then grabs the knife and tunes the paint into a distinct remarkable figures and set.. A tree, a roof, a boat, river, walkway, stone, etc. 

I thought paints and brushes were enough to paint; Yet, it was the knife that made it more vivid and detailed.

I wanted to show him some landscapes from my phone and ask him to copy, but I was afraid he might not be able to do it (or, at least, get it as perfect as what those he has done so far); He might have not done anything like in my pictures before, or perhaps didn't have the appropriate materials to accomplish what I want; Neither did I want to leave anyway with lost confidence from what I've already seen. . I did not want him to feel bad about saying no, or me loosing confidence too. I just let him do his thing and sign the last one with my name on it. After all, it's just 1500Ks (p70).

I don't normally buy crafts that will end up being (hand) carry ons later, but for this genuine art, i'll make it an exception. I knew i'll have to carry it separately, but I won't mind for now. I'll have this framed once I get home.

I look forward to a day when Ko Ko Nung will have his own shop, if not a galery. 

For someone, who is aging through his country's struggle for development, to see a brilliant young, in his country that's now chasing all that they've been ripped off, I can only sigh and tell him in my mind, "Oh  you (we) deserve better." 

Read More »